All aquariums are susceptible to algae and an overabundance of it can be detrimental. We have all seen it growing in our own aquariums or friends and we all have tried to avoid it at all costs. Algae can not only create an unsightly vista, but algae growth can cause the death of corals and other life on your live rock. There are many forms of algae and many solutions to reducing it. This article covers the underline causes of most algae problems.
To reduce or eradicate algae, we first must look at the cause. Two of the main causes of algae are organic
matter and light.
Organic Matter
Organic matter is fish waste and food. The more fish you have in your tank that are
producing waste, the more food algae has to grow. Over feeding can also create excess algae in
your aquarium. Although fish are constant feeders, they tend to only eat for
about 5 minutes after being fed. Any
food left over, falls to the bottom of the tank or gets sucked up by the
filtration system. Excess food than decays and feeds the algae instead of the
fish.
Improper filtration can add to your algae problems. Good water movement will keep your water
oxygenated and proper filtration will insure that you can handle whatever
bio-load you choose to put in your aquarium.
Proper research and talking to your Local Fish Store (LFS) will help
determine which type of filtration is right for you.
Light is extremely important for your corals and the right
lighting can reduce algae growth. Algae loves to grow in red spectrum lighting.
This means that you should use lighting that is made specifically for
aquariums. Regular fluorescent bulbs,
like what are used in commercial buildings, are NOT to be used. These put out a lot of red spectrum and will
cause tons of algae growth and not help your livestock. Light is, arguably, more important than
filtration in some instances. There are
many, many types and choices of lighting.
Again, it is a good idea to do loads of research, talk to other
hobbyists, and your LFS when deciding what lighting system and what light bulbs
are best.
Control of your lighting and the amount of organic matter
will help keep your algae problem in check.
Other things that will keep algae away are doing regular water changes,
use Reverse Osmosis (R/O) water when doing your changes (in freshwater
aquariums it is a good idea to supplement some minerals before adding R/O water.) Putting creatures in your tank that will eat the
algae can also help. In freshwater,
there are several fish that are good algae eaters. I personally don’t care for snails as algae
eaters in a freshwater aquarium as they are a good host for parasites. In a saltwater aquarium, snails and small
crabs will go after the algae and keep it in check.
Many people
believe that cleaning an aquarium on a regular basis is an extremely daunting
chore. They have anxiety over the thought of emptying all of the water and
rinsing out the gravel every single month. Luckily, that is not how an aquarium
should be cleaned. Once a month
maintenance is ideal, but instead of tearing down the aquarium each time, only
small ¼ water changes are needed. By
using a gravel siphon, you can drain a partial amount of water from the
aquarium while leaving the fish, ornaments and substrate in the aquarium. Just topping off an aquarium when the water
level is low is not cleaning. When water evaporates, all the ammonia and gasses
are still in the tank. Filling up an
aquarium when the water evaporates, doesn’t count as a partial water change.
You need to extract a portion of water periodically. This process takes only 5 – 10 minutes for
the average size aquarium.
There is
such a thing as cleaning your aquarium too much. Beneficial bacteria that grows on the
substrate is a necessity for a healthy aquarium. It eats away at the toxic
ammonia that the fish produce. If you take the gravel out of the aquarium and
give it a good cleaning, you are destroying all that good bacteria that is
needed. The gravel siphon allows you to
remove the dirt along with a partial amount of water from the aquarium without
destroying the bacteria. I highly suggest getting an aquarium siphon if you don’t
have one. These simple devices are
designed to get into the gravel and siphon out the dirt without destroying the
good bacteria. Creating a healthy environment
for you fish doesn’t mean a sterile environment.
-Kevin Ellwanger
So, you have just brought home your brand new aquarium and have finished setting it up. The gravel is in place. The tank is filled to the brim with water that has reached a comfortable temperature for the type of fish you are planning on keeping. Now it’s time to go to the local fish store and purchase your new aquarium occupants.
Whether you are stocking a small 10 gallon, 55 or a larger 100 gallon plus size aquarium, you may feel a need to immediately fill the tank with lots of fish. But putting a large population of fish into a brand new aquarium is a recipe for disaster. Every aquarium must go through a cycling process or “New Tank Syndrome”.
Beneficial bacteria are what helps keep fish alive. The bacteria will eat away at the toxic ammonia that fish produce as waste. The bacteria convert the toxic ammonia to a slightly less toxic nitrite. The nitrite is than converted to scarcely toxic nitrate. Nitrate is taken out of the aquarium by water changes and absorbed by plants and algae. In a new aquarium with no established bacteria, the fish produce ammonia and then start breathing that ammonia causing death. It takes 4-6 weeks for these bacteria do develop naturally after fish are added.
In order for these Nitrifying bacteria to get started in your aquarium, you must feed it a bit of ammonia. Having the tank running empty for a month will not accomplish anything. One way a person can help break in their new aquarium is by adding a handful or two of gravel from an already establish aquarium. Sprinkle the gravel on top of the new gravel or by placing it in a mesh bag and inserting it into the filter area. There are also products available that help speed up the cycling process. These products can be very helpful in a new tank but I do not suggest using them as a sole substitute for patience and careful cycling.
When you do stock the aquarium, start with inexpensive and hardy fish. Medium tetras or barbs can be a good first choice for the aquarium. Fish that you should not start the aquarium are any types of catfish or algae eaters. These fish should be avoided in new tanks not only because there is little to no food for them yet, but since these fish are bottom dwellers, where the ammonia is more concentrated and there is less oxygen, they are more susceptible to toxic ammonia.
In saltwater aquariums, live rock is a perfect seed for beneficial bacteria. Just add several pounds of live rock to your new aquariums and in two to three weeks the aquarium will be ready for your new fish.

